Equipment that one needs for offroading
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Basic Equipments one needs to carry for offroading :
New Bee (preferable) :
1. Compatible offroad vehicle with snatch/recovery hooks at both front and rear.
2. Compatible Radio
3. Tyre Pressure Gauge
4. Tyre DeflatorFew bee :
1. All of the above
2. Rated snatch strap (kinetic type)
3. 2 Rated Shackles
4. Shovel
5. Air compressor
6. Flag pole including flagIntermediate :
1. All of the above.
2. GPS Navigation system
3. 3 Ton Hydraulic Jack
4. Base Plate for the jack.
5. First Aid kit
6. Fire extinguisher.Advance :
1. All of the above
2. Good offroad GPS and knowledge of its use
3. Basic tools kit and repair kit
4. Spare vehicle fluids and critical mechanical / electrical components
Nice and useful info Dada :ymapplause: :ymapplause: :ymapplause:
Good listing Ganesh. I have few suggestions:
– We need to change the expression “tow point” to “snatch/recovery point”. Tow point is good enough to tow/roll a vehicle on the road but may give in when you put the full vehicle load on it for recovery. the difference between Tow point and Snatch/Recovery point is not very clear and is a matter of judgement. Look at some of the eyelets under an american 4×4 and you will find the difference. under no circumstances, we should tie the recovery strap to these tow points, else expect a metallic shower 🙂 of the broken tow point/loop. each driver should know the reliability of various hooks under the chassis and should periodically check these when the car is lifted for maintenance or washing
– Offlate we are all focusing on the kinetic ropes. This is good but is a dangerous weapon in case a lighter vehicle is forced to recover a heavier vehicle. In case the heavier vehicle is badly stuck and even the fully stretched kinetic rope is not able to pull it out, there’s a freak chance that it will catapult the lighter vehicle towards the heavier vehicle. To void such a situation, a normal recovery strap should be used. therefore, we we need to carry non-kinetic strap also in our tool kit.
– We should gradually move from the metallic D-shackle to soft shackle. soft shackle is costlier than the metallic shackle, but doesn’t threaten life when it breaks.
– Both recovery strap and shackle should be rated for atleast 150% of the dead weight of the stuck car. every good strap or shackle will have the rating on it. the recovery strap generally has 3-4 ratings on the label, e.g. towing load, snatch load or lifting load. we should always look for snatch load rating.
you may like to include the above appropriately in a comprehensive list.
quote AJS:Good listing Ganesh. I have few suggestions:– We need to change the expression “tow point” to “snatch/recovery point”. Tow point is good enough to tow/roll a vehicle on the road but may give in when you put the full vehicle load on it for recovery. the difference between Tow point and Snatch/Recovery point is not very clear and is a matter of judgement. Look at some of the eyelets under an american 4×4 and you will find the difference. under no circumstances, we should tie the recovery strap to these tow points, else expect a metallic shower 🙂 of the broken tow point/loop. each driver should know the reliability of various hooks under the chassis and should periodically check these when the car is lifted for maintenance or washing
– Offlate we are all focusing on the kinetic ropes. This is good but is a dangerous weapon in case a lighter vehicle is forced to recover a heavier vehicle. In case the heavier vehicle is badly stuck and even the fully stretched kinetic rope is not able to pull it out, there’s a freak chance that it will catapult the lighter vehicle towards the heavier vehicle. To void such a situation, a normal recovery strap should be used. therefore, we we need to carry non-kinetic strap also in our tool kit.
– We should gradually move from the metallic D-shackle to soft shackle. soft shackle is costlier than the metallic shackle, but doesn’t threaten life when it breaks.
– Both recovery strap and shackle should be rated for atleast 150% of the dead weight of the stuck car. every good strap or shackle will have the rating on it. the recovery strap generally has 3-4 ratings on the label, e.g. towing load, snatch load or lifting load. we should always look for snatch load rating.
you may like to include the above appropriately in a comprehensive list.
Thanks for the very useful inputs Ajay Sir…. will defenitely incorporate them…. :thanks:
In addition to the above, it would be idealistic if we could have the below equipments too
1. Tool Box Kit
2. Basic First Aid Kit
3. Jumper Cable
4. Tyre Spanner
5. Few Spare Valves
6. Cable Ties
7. Hand Gloves
8. Torch ( To walk around during darkness if in case drive is extended and unable to hit tarmac before sunset)
9. Fire Extinguisher
10. Sun Hat and Sun Block cream
11. Swimming Wear Goggles or Safety Glass and Ear Caps (If there is sand storm in desert by chance then this will be helpful to protect our eyes and ears)
12. Travel Bag to keep all our offroading Kit secured or cargo nets.
13. Glass breaker
quote khshareef:In addition to the above, it would be idealistic if we could have the below equipments too
1. Tool Box Kit
2. Basic First Aid Kit
3. Jumper Cable
4. Tyre Spanner
5. Few Spare Valves
6. Cable Ties
7. Hand Gloves
8. Torch ( To walk around during darkness if in case drive is extended and unable to hit tarmac before sunset)
9. Fire Extinguisher
10. Sun Hat and Sun Block cream
11. Swimming Wear Goggles or Safety Glass and Ear Caps (If there is sand storm in desert by chance then this will be helpful to protect our eyes and ears)
12. Travel Bag to keep all our offroading Kit secured or cargo nets.:ymapplause: :ymapplause: :ymapplause: :ymapplause:
Thanks Dada, Ajay, and Humayun for the useful information.
Gkumar registered for the trip 😕 I think either its a bug or wrong post type.
Its not an error or bug, Musbah. I was thanking the author for the useful post 🙂
quote GKumar:Its not an error or bug, Musbah. I was thanking the author for the useful post 🙂Common Kumar Ji…I know you are thanking Dada. I wanted to draw your attention that the post should be classified as a new post where there should be a button to thank the user rather than register for the trip. 😉 I think Hamza can take care of it.
quote musbah:quote GKumar:Its not an error or bug, Musbah. I was thanking the author for the useful post 🙂Common Kumar Ji…I know you are thanking Dada. I wanted to draw your attention that the post should be classified as a new post where there should be a button to thank the user rather than register for the trip. 😉 I think Hamza can take care of it.
Oh yes.. you are absolutely correct Musbah :-BD I didnt notice it earlier 🙁
Dada – you posted it in the wrong forum. It would have been ideally posted at “Technical Articles and Reviews” Also, it will create another confusion. New members to the site will access the hyperlink at the drive post and will be guided here. After reading the equipment list, they will register for the drive here and their name will be missing at the original drive post. I had come across a similar issue in the past. We can request Hamza to move the post to the appropriate forum.
This is for you Dada
[media]http://youtu.be/vHEV5l0HWF4[/media]
quote Ganesh:Basic Equipments one needs to carry for offroading :New Bee (preferable) :
1. Compatible offroad vehicle with tow hooks at both front and rear.
2. Compatible Radio
3. Tyre Pressure Gauge
4. Tyre DeflatorFew bee :
1. All of the above
2. Rated snatch strap (kinetic type)
3. 2 Rated Shackles
4. Shovel
5. Air compressor
6. Flag pole including flagIntermediate :
1. All of the above.
2. GPS Navigation system
3. 3 Ton Hydraulic Jack
4. Base Plate for the jack.
5. First Aid kit
6. Fire extinguisher.Advance :
1. All of the above
2. Good offroad GPS and knowledge of its use
3. Basic tools kit and repair kit
4. Spare vehicle fluids and critical mechanical / electrical componentsQuestion:
I have read conflicting articles about whether or not the rear tow bar can or should be used to ‘hook’ up to. Logically, I think that a heavy duty towing-hitch is no better or no worse than a regular tow hook. What is DO’s opinion about this?
quote musbah:This is for you Dada[media]http://youtu.be/vHEV5l0HWF4[/media]
:)) :)) :)) :)) :)) thats a nice one Musbah…. :thanks:
quote DVG:quote Ganesh:Basic Equipments one needs to carry for offroading :New Bee (preferable) :
1. Compatible offroad vehicle with tow hooks at both front and rear.
2. Compatible RadioFew bee :
1. All of the aboveIntermediate :
1. All of the above.Advance :
1. All of the aboveQuestion:
I have read conflicting articles about whether or not the rear tow bar can or should be used to ‘hook’ up to. Logically, I think that a heavy duty towing-hitch is no better or no worse than a regular tow hook. What is DO’s opinion about this?Very good question, one that is easy to ignore and we’d need an SGS ISO 9000 surveyor to help accurately quantify that, as it happens…….:D
A towing hitch these days is a question of an accessory insert into a fitting which is through bolted to the chassis or sub frame. A tow hook is generally a component of vehicle manufacture welded as either a closed loop or hook. In each of these instances either sheer or tensional stress is in application.
Sheer stress is easier to quantify as a ‘sheer pin’ can be tested to destruction and manufactured to exact specifications.
To make this easier to understand, consider a shackle, Shackles are rated on sheer stress, i.e. when the pin of the shackle reaches maximum stress and ruptures. As in both cases the tow medium (rope strap or solid bar) are accessories to the attachment So we could say that a tow hitch pull and a tow hook pull have similar properties in at least one element of the composition of the forces applied to them. However we need to look a little more closely at the other bits of the ‘point of stress application’ i.e. where the maximum impact of stress is applied throughout the system of load transfer.It could be argued that a welded towhook is subject to sheer stress as they are frequently welded vertically to the chassis and bent to a more horizontal plane. The resulting stress depends entirely on the ‘lead’ of the force applied to the attachment. The towhitch which is through bolted to the chassis is subject to tensional stress i.e. pulling apart of the mass of the material in both it’s attachment to the chassis and the resistance of the chassis to this same stress i.e. the bolts pulling through the material of the chassis.
There is one more thing to consider in this discussion and that is the type of tow hook or tow hitch. Various vehicles are equipped as standard with a ‘U’ towing attachment front and rear. Toyota: Land Cruiser, Sequoia, FJC for example. Others vehicles are equipped with a tow hook, which is an extended ‘C’ with one side open, a weaker construction by nature.
To be clear in order to test which system was stronger one would have to test each of the components to destruction and then compare these stats to come up with the sliding scale of resistance.
There are practical considerations that perhaps have a greater relevance than the simple engineering; force versus resistance discussion. These are that: a hook/hitch is by definition open. This could cause the traction medium (rope strap) to become detached. Consider also that whilst a hitch is generally in a central position and only ever at the rear of a vehicle tow hooks(generic open or closed) are positioned on both sides of the vehicle front and rear. This latter point allows the load to be spread over both attachments if required.
In conclusion and limited to our ‘sandbug’ regular use of tow attachments ; whilst engineering would argue that structurally there is little difference in either system, practicality argues for the use of OEM tow attachments being superior to a central hitch and within that categorisation a closed loop superior to an open hook.
😀
quote brianj:quote DVG:quote Ganesh:Basic Equipments one needs to carry for offroading :New Bee (preferable) :
1. Compatible offroad vehicle with tow hooks at both front and rear.
2. Compatible RadioFew bee :
1. All of the aboveIntermediate :
1. All of the above.Advance :
1. All of the aboveQuestion:
I have read conflicting articles about whether or not the rear tow bar can or should be used to ‘hook’ up to. Logically, I think that a heavy duty towing-hitch is no better or no worse than a regular tow hook. What is DO’s opinion about this?Very good question, one that is easy to ignore and we’d need an SGS ISO 9000 surveyor to help accurately quantify that, as it happens…….:D
A towing hitch these days is a question of an accessory insert into a fitting which is through bolted to the chassis or sub frame. A tow hook is generally a component of vehicle manufacture welded as either a closed loop or hook. In each of these instances either sheer or tensional stress is in application.
Sheer stress is easier to quantify as a ‘sheer pin’ can be tested to destruction and manufactured to exact specifications.
To make this easier to understand, consider a shackle, Shackles are rated on sheer stress, i.e. when the pin of the shackle reaches maximum stress and ruptures. As in both cases the tow medium (rope strap or solid bar) are accessories to the attachment So we could say that a tow hitch pull and a tow hook pull have similar properties in at least one element of the composition of the forces applied to them. However we need to look a little more closely at the other bits of the ‘point of stress application’ i.e. where the maximum impact of stress is applied throughout the system of load transfer.It could be argued that a welded towhook is subject to sheer stress as they are frequently welded vertically to the chassis and bent to a more horizontal plane. The resulting stress depends entirely on the ‘lead’ of the force applied to the attachment. The towhitch which is through bolted to the chassis is subject to tensional stress i.e. pulling apart of the mass of the material in both it’s attachment to the chassis and the resistance of the chassis to this same stress i.e. the bolts pulling through the material of the chassis.
There is one more thing to consider in this discussion and that is the type of tow hook or tow hitch. Various vehicles are equipped as standard with a ‘U’ towing attachment front and rear. Toyota: Land Cruiser, Sequoia, FJC for example. Others vehicles are equipped with a tow hook, which is an extended ‘C’ with one side open, a weaker construction by nature.
To be clear in order to test which system was stronger one would have to test each of the components to destruction and then compare these stats to come up with the sliding scale of resistance.
There are practical considerations that perhaps have a greater relevance than the simple engineering; force versus resistance discussion. These are that: a hook/hitch is by definition open. This could cause the traction medium (rope strap) to become detached. Consider also that whilst a hitch is generally in a central position and only ever at the rear of a vehicle tow hooks(generic open or closed) are positioned on both sides of the vehicle front and rear. This latter point allows the load to be spread over both attachments if required.
In conclusion and limited to our ‘sandbug’ regular use of tow attachments ; whilst engineering would argue that structurally there is little difference in either system, practicality argues for the use of OEM tow attachments being superior to a central hitch and within that categorisation a closed loop superior to an open hook.
😀:ymapplause: :ymapplause: :ymapplause:
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