FJ Cruiser Rev Limiter reached
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I was in Al Qoa and while negotiating the slip face, I started loosing power. Glancing on the dash board i realize that i was touching 40Kmph and yet the rpm was close to 5500…the next thing I lost power completely. Very scary situation 😮 🙁
A few seconds later the power came back and i could safely negotiate the slip face…side sloping…this was a first time experience for me…anyone experienced this before?
I have a ’12 FJ from Al Futtaim with a snorkel and lift and no performance mods. My transmission was in H4 / 2. A/T
WOuld appreciate comments. :-\ :-s
Mosalf 0566161157
😮
i have 2012 fj with snorkel A/T same as your car butt it didn’t happen
its very scary #:-s thank god you didn’t roll over w
quote FJ 22114:😮
i have 2012 fj with snorkel A/T same as your car butt it didn’t happen
its very scary #:-s thank god you didn’t roll over wThanks Zakaria, alhamdulillah I didn’t not roll over. However, I did have some narrow escape. I will put in a new filter this week. How often should we change the OEM stock filter for desert driving? Futtaim says for regular desert driving the filter needs to be changed every 40k. I think this too much. The funny thing is, on road I have all the power. The car does not heat up. I need to get it checked.
Is it automatic?
Something similar can also happen with the Jeep if not all automatic transmissions.
You can have a bypass switch put in so that the rev limiter gets overridden then this will not happen. You can then turn it on and off for offroading purposes.
The other option is to get a chip programmer and change the set limits for gear change which is where this might be happening I believe.
Just my thoughts but of course I did not have first hand experience and so could be way off the mark.
The rev limiter is essentially a tool to protect the engine…the cams, crankshaft, valves & all those small bits & pieces that makes these engines go zoom are delicate…
All of these are designed for a certain torsional rigidity and breaking strain…AND some of us have been able to damage the engines while driving offroad!!! This mostly happens on older vehicles or modified vehicles.
The modifications essentially circumvent what the designer had in mind when designing that particular engine and that is why I do not recommend any modifications on the car.
It is obviously better to have the rev limiter kick in rather than have some major damage to the engine!!!
As it is…this sort of thing will only happen if one is using an Automatic transmission in tiptronic mode and revving the engine higher than 5k RPMs, which is where the rev limiter is set for in the current generation 4.0 litre V6 Toyota engines.
We should not, ideally, reach that situation since the maximum torque on this engine is generated at about 3000-3400 RPM and as we all know…it is the torque that we are using when driving offroad.
There are some other engines like the older 4.0 Litre straight six on the Jeep as well as the 4.8 Litre straight six Nissan Patrol engine which developed maximum torque in excess of 4500 RPM and it is these engines that are most prone to breakdown in the hands of an overenthusiastic driver.
So…let us drive with little bit more skill…managing the gears and the engine properly…using the torque power curve to maximise the potential of what that vehicle can do…
🙂
quote Ahmad Pervez:The rev limiter is essentially a tool to protect the engine…the cams, crankshaft, valves & all those small bits & pieces that makes these engines go zoom are delicate…
All of these are designed for a certain torsional rigidity and breaking strain…AND some of us have been able to damage the engines while driving offroad!!! This mostly happens on older vehicles or modified vehicles.
The modifications essentially circumvent what the designer had in mind when designing that particular engine and that is why I do not recommend any modifications on the car.
It is obviously better to have the rev limiter kick in rather than have some major damage to the engine!!!
As it is…this sort of thing will only happen if one is using an Automatic transmission in tiptronic mode and revving the engine higher than 5k RPMs, which is where the rev limiter is set for in the current generation 4.0 litre V6 Toyota engines.
We should not, ideally, reach that situation since the maximum torque on this engine is generated at about 3000-3400 RPM and as we all know…it is the torque that we are using when driving offroad.
There are some other engines like the older 4.0 Litre straight six on the Jeep as well as the 4.8 Litre straight six Nissan Patrol engine which developed maximum torque in excess of 4500 RPM and it is these engines that are most prone to breakdown in the hands of an overenthusiastic driver.
So…let us drive with little bit more skill…managing the gears and the engine properly…using the torque power curve to maximise the potential of what that vehicle can do…
🙂:thanks: i completely agree. We need to realise that all mods have a flip side to it. in any case, though difficult, but in extreme situations, an eye should be there on the RPM, else the engine may stall 🙁
quote AJS:quote Ahmad Pervez:The rev limiter is essentially a tool to protect the engine…the cams, crankshaft, valves & all those small bits & pieces that makes these engines go zoom are delicate…
All of these are designed for a certain torsional rigidity and breaking strain…AND some of us have been able to damage the engines while driving offroad!!! This mostly happens on older vehicles or modified vehicles.
The modifications essentially circumvent what the designer had in mind when designing that particular engine and that is why I do not recommend any modifications on the car.
It is obviously better to have the rev limiter kick in rather than have some major damage to the engine!!!
As it is…this sort of thing will only happen if one is using an Automatic transmission in tiptronic mode and revving the engine higher than 5k RPMs, which is where the rev limiter is set for in the current generation 4.0 litre V6 Toyota engines.
We should not, ideally, reach that situation since the maximum torque on this engine is generated at about 3000-3400 RPM and as we all know…it is the torque that we are using when driving offroad.
There are some other engines like the older 4.0 Litre straight six on the Jeep as well as the 4.8 Litre straight six Nissan Patrol engine which developed maximum torque in excess of 4500 RPM and it is these engines that are most prone to breakdown in the hands of an overenthusiastic driver.
So…let us drive with little bit more skill…managing the gears and the engine properly…using the torque power curve to maximise the potential of what that vehicle can do…
🙂:thanks: i completely agree. We need to realise that all mods have a flip side to it. in any case, though difficult, but in extreme situations, an eye should be there on the RPM, else the engine may stall 🙁
Thanks to Ahmad, Ajay. What should one do in this situation? Go down to gear 1 or make sure to turn down. This of course is my learning curve and thank you for pointing out the debilities in my driving style. I shall be more careful of gunning the engine. Need to learn more abt the auto trains and it’s limitations. Also understand why people prefer manual cars in off-rod conditions. So ideally, should take a easier path? Will also check with my friend regarding driving styles. Last question, when should we change filters? I go off-road almost every week.
Hello
I also have the automatic transmission and I always go in H4, 1st gear if climbing or side sloping.
I’ve had problems a few times going in H4, 2nd gear and the engine would almost stall before the transmission would kick it down to first gear..and then you have lost the momentum.So for me it works better to keep it in 1st gear :drive:
quote mosalf:quote AJS:quote Ahmad Pervez:The rev limiter is essentially a tool to protect the engine…the cams, crankshaft, valves & all those small bits & pieces that makes these engines go zoom are delicate…
All of these are designed for a certain torsional rigidity and breaking strain…AND some of us have been able to damage the engines while driving offroad!!! This mostly happens on older vehicles or modified vehicles.
The modifications essentially circumvent what the designer had in mind when designing that particular engine and that is why I do not recommend any modifications on the car.
It is obviously better to have the rev limiter kick in rather than have some major damage to the engine!!!
As it is…this sort of thing will only happen if one is using an Automatic transmission in tiptronic mode and revving the engine higher than 5k RPMs, which is where the rev limiter is set for in the current generation 4.0 litre V6 Toyota engines.
We should not, ideally, reach that situation since the maximum torque on this engine is generated at about 3000-3400 RPM and as we all know…it is the torque that we are using when driving offroad.
There are some other engines like the older 4.0 Litre straight six on the Jeep as well as the 4.8 Litre straight six Nissan Patrol engine which developed maximum torque in excess of 4500 RPM and it is these engines that are most prone to breakdown in the hands of an overenthusiastic driver.
So…let us drive with little bit more skill…managing the gears and the engine properly…using the torque power curve to maximise the potential of what that vehicle can do…
🙂:thanks: i completely agree. We need to realise that all mods have a flip side to it. in any case, though difficult, but in extreme situations, an eye should be there on the RPM, else the engine may stall 🙁
Thanks to Ahmad, Ajay. What should one do in this situation? Go down to gear 1 or make sure to turn down. This of course is my learning curve and thank you for pointing out the debilities in my driving style. I shall be more careful of gunning the engine. Need to learn more abt the auto trains and it’s limitations. Also understand why people prefer manual cars in off-rod conditions. So ideally, should take a easier path? Will also check with my friend regarding driving styles. Last question, when should we change filters? I go off-road almost every week.
Altaf,
Concerning your 1st query it is always better to use first gear when you require power.
Seconding regarding vehicle maintenance, here are few things i follow which have been learnt from senior marshalls/senior members in DO/other clubs too.
Engiene Oil – Many of the offroaders use 10w60. There are different brands like Catrol, Liquimoly etc but i use Castrol 10W60. This Oil is meant to last 10 to 12K Miles if driven on road but i change this every 7500 to 8000Km as we drive offroad every week.
Oil Filter – I change Oil Filter during every Oil Change
Spark Plugs – I do not have direct experience with Toyota Agency but heard that they suggests to change spark plugs every 40K. I change this during alternate oil change and this gives lots of difference in terms of power and fuel efficiency.
Air Filter – After every desert drive, i go for full water wash and prior to wash clean the air filter
quote famvilnes:HelloI also have the automatic transmission and I always go in H4, 1st gear if climbing or side sloping.
I’ve had problems a few times going in H4, 2nd gear and the engine would almost stall before the transmission would kick it down to first gear..and then you have lost the momentum.So for me it works better to keep it in 1st gear :drive:
That is another very valid point raised by Ole!!! The vehicle should ALWAYS be driven in H4 under all circumstances, except when one is stuck in soft sand and attempting self recovery or if one is in Wadi/ Mountains and climbing steeper slopes.
There is a very useful feature in most of the newer vehicles the FJs, Prados and on the Land Cruiser that allows one to lock the centre differential, in High transfer case ratio, when navigating soft/ high Dunes.
This gives an immediate improvement in handling and avoids stucks by transferring equal power to both the front & the rear differentials.
This is an option HL on the transfer case on the FJ & the Prado and can be activated with a switch on the dash of the LC.
The only issue is that the vehicle SHOULD NOT be driven at any speed higher than 40kms or the transfer case or differential could be damaged…
That essentially means that one has to be very careful keeping a close watch on at least 3 parameters…the speed, the RPM as well as the temperature gauge at all times, when driving offroad!!!
Any unnecessary gunning of the engine & higher/ uncontrolled speeds could only spell doom for the vehicle’s engine…or even worse!!!
:-s
Although I never experience such thing so far but it is always nice to learn from this type of situations, which helps to prepare yourself to respond batter for any future challenges?
Have fun and drive safe. :drive:
Regards,
Naseem
quote Multani:Although I never experience such thing so far but it is always nice to learn from this type of situations, which helps to prepare yourself to respond batter for any future challenges?Have fun and drive safe. :drive:
Regards,
Naseem
Hello Naseem,
Thats the idea for sharing experiences…unfortunately we don’t share ours until they become nightmares. Ones bad experience is a learning for most of us. 🙂
Humayun, thanks for sharing on the engine oil, I will check this…mine is changed every 5K with the filter (good old practice from Saudi) However, one thing I dont do is get the car washed after every drive….hmmm 😕 I do clean the filter before the drive (offroad) but rarely thereafter so city drives are with a unclean filter….need to change that. All in all I like every one else I believe love my car and need to keep it in top shape so it keeps me alive…thanks to all contributors… :drive: :thanks:
quote Ahmad Pervez:quote famvilnes:HelloI also have the automatic transmission and I always go in H4, 1st gear if climbing or side sloping.
I’ve had problems a few times going in H4, 2nd gear and the engine would almost stall before the transmission would kick it down to first gear..and then you have lost the momentum.So for me it works better to keep it in 1st gear :drive:
That is another very valid point raised by Ole!!! The vehicle should ALWAYS be driven in H4 under all circumstances, except when one is stuck in soft sand and attempting self recovery or if one is in Wadi/ Mountains and climbing steeper slopes.
There is a very useful feature in most of the newer vehicles the FJs, Prados and on the Land Cruiser that allows one to lock the centre differential, in High transfer case ratio, when navigating soft/ high Dunes.
This gives an immediate improvement in handling and avoids stucks by transferring equal power to both the front & the rear differentials.
This is an option HL on the transfer case on the FJ & the Prado and can be activated with a switch on the dash of the LC.
The only issue is that the vehicle SHOULD NOT be driven at any speed higher than 40kms or the transfer case or differential could be damaged…
That essentially means that one has to be very careful keeping a close watch on at least 3 parameters…the speed, the RPM as well as the temperature gauge at all times, when driving offroad!!!
Any unnecessary gunning of the engine & higher/ uncontrolled speeds could only spell doom for the vehicle’s engine…or even worse!!!
:-sThanks for sharing this, I have had many experts comment on low gear driving. Most of them drive the Nissan Patrol SWB manual and most of them drive in Low Gear. I completely agree with Ahmad Sb, the low gear is two be used in “sticky” situations. Sharing a link on the Toyota website. http://www.toyota.ae/wps/portal/ToyotaHome/ToyotaCommons/Offroadtips/!ut/p/b1/04_Sj9CPykssy0xPLMnMz0vMAfGjzOKNDB1dzT1DjQwMXJ3MDDwDvAIDLc0tDUx8jYAKIoEKDHAARwNC-sP1o8BK8Jjg55Gfm6pfkBthoOuoqAgALUDo4A!!/dl4/d5/L2dBISEvZ0FBIS9nQSEh/
Toyota does not recommend driving with the low gear. If its inevitable use 4 and 3 and two is only for stuck on the A/T. The 2010+ FJ has a read diff lock and A TRAC. I believe the central diff lock is for the Manual FJ.
Case of Rev Limiter solved thanks to Humayun, Duncan and Ole. Its H4 and Gear One from now on…. :thanks:
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