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  • March 3, 2015 at 5:55 pm #32213
    quote joe.zeinoun:

    welcome on board Dave ๐Ÿ™‚
    hope to see you soon on one of DO drives :drive:

    Thanks! I have done all sorts off offroading all over the world, but cannot say i have done deep sand before. Hoping i can learn a lot from you guys!

    March 3, 2015 at 5:41 pm #32212

    also, what size tires are you planning on running? that would determine your lift size more than anything else (and whether or not you plan to chop your fender flares).

    March 3, 2015 at 5:32 pm #32211

    ah…so there ARE shops that can do it out there? I figured you guys would know the best most reliable shops out there… ๐Ÿ™‚ can always count on offroaders to know good mechanics. lol

    March 3, 2015 at 10:13 am #32205

    hi all!
    AEV: great lift….
    Pros: it uses stock control arms (make sure to get the geometry correction brackets!!!!!) comes with top notch specially valved bilstein shocks.
    absolutely, hands down, FABULOUS on road handling.
    cons (if you want to consider this a con): this kit is used more for expedition style offroading. I listed this as a con due to the fact that some people find that they want more flex capabilities than this kit would offer.

    keep this in mind as well: the AEV kit is designed to work with the AEV bumpers, heavy winch, etc….if you have stock bumpers, no winch, etc….the ride may be a little rough.
    i have this kit on now, but am starting to piece it out and upgrade to coilovers and a 3 link rear….

    what kind of offroad are you looking at doing and what is your price range??

    March 3, 2015 at 10:07 am #32204

    that is what i was afraid of. I am gonna upgrade to a PR44 front end, but was hoping to keep my current rear diff….but was looking to regear to match instead of buying a new axle for the rear as well……guess that puts me back a bit on the timeline ๐Ÿ™
    thank you for the help!

    March 3, 2015 at 10:05 am #32203
    quote joe.zeinoun:

    spacers might be a cheaper option provided that they are of a reputable brand to insure safety.
    they also need to be hub-centric/wheel-centric to minimize any vibrations at the wheels.
    this type of fitting also reduces stress on the hub bolts, preventing the bolts from breaking under heavy loads in extreme driving conditions, as all the load will be directly transfered to the center of the hub instead.

    on the other hand, wheels might be a more expensive option, but they do give you peace of mind with less hassle in fitting and balancing, and a stronger more reliable OEM approach. wheels are also slightly more complicated in terms of achieving the desired wheel base width, as some calculations need to be done for wheel centre offsetting and overall wheel width. moreover the centre hub of most after-market wheels will be wider in diameter than the hub centre of your vehicle, to facilitate multi vehicle application. in this case an adequate shim/spacer of the exact reducing measurements must be fabricated or sometimes readily available at the tyre shop.

    either way you go, your steering and road feel will not be the same anymore and will be affected somehow negatively, as you will get more side to side movement at the steering wheel due to increased opposing road forces at both front wheels. but it wont be too drastic as long as you dont utilize too much spacing…

    hope this helps..
    cheers

    could not agree more. Hub centric is the way to go (wheels or spacers) if you can. People have used spacers for years with no issues, just make sure to check the torque every time you rotate your tires. Lug centric wheels arent bad per se, but hub centric are better. As far as the market goes: hub centric are harder to find since they would be manufactured for a specific vehicle (or range of vehicle that use the same hub)…whereas lug centric is a more generic wheel that can fit on pretty much any vehicle that uses the same bolt pattern (5×5, 8 x 6.5, etc etc etc). lug centric wheels/spacers put the strain on the lugs themselves. With that being said, after seeing extremely hard offroad, rock crawling, and numerous competitions…breaking a lug clean off is not very common, let alone 5.
    Also, are you having any rubbing issues on the frame or control arms? That’s one of the main reasons to get the spaces/backspace. Dont forget, if you lift, you need to correct your castor to eliminate the flighty steering.

    hope this all makes sense and my mind hasnt wandered all over…its early and the coffee hasnt kicked in yet.
    –Dave

    March 3, 2015 at 9:53 am #32201

    not to hijack the thread, but hopefully you guys can help. I will be coming out there in the next few months with a 2012 Wrangler. I am planning to do some more upgrades. Particularly gearing and axles. Is there a shop, a GOOD shop, out there that can do regearing? When thousandths of an inch make or break the gears, i am not trusting of very many people. looking to go from 3.73 to 4.88 gears. THANKS GUYS!

    March 2, 2015 at 7:50 pm #32196

    Hello all!

    Name: Dave B
    Vehicle: Jeep Wrangler JKU. currently on a 2.5 inch lift (gonna go higher) and loads of mods
    Occupation: security field
    Offroading: Been offroading since about 2007.
    I am currently moving to Oman …i know i know, not dubai, but i am hoping to get with you guys and go on runs as often as possible!