Things I Didn’t Know About: 2008 Pajero
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When I decided to get a Pajero, I thought I had done all the research necessary. Yet, just one drive in the desert and I had so many more questions!
Considering that the agent does a poor job of marketing this fine vehicle, I had to do a lot of research to get a few answers.
When driving in sand, keep in mind the following:
– Always wear your seatbelt. This applies to all seats. If you do not, the desert will make an example of you.
– Read your manual well and keep it handy
– The Pajero comes equipped with an air gauge (1 bar = 14.5psi). It’s packed with the first aid kit in the tailgate.
– Tire pressure must be measured cold; measure before leaving home and accommodate the difference caused by heating due to travel
– Keep the fresh air circulation off (the Pajero cabin air filter does not fit flush with it’s casing, and some sand will get through – this will self-clean by draining out when you leave the desert)
– You can change between 2H and 4H at speeds up to 100km/hr. Take your foot off the accelerator, push little gear down and shift.
– Switch off ASC when stationary and keep on eye on the dash in case it re-engages
– You can drive in D, but it is advisable to drive in ‘manual’ mode to identify optimal shifting points
– Do not rev beyond 4000rpm; use momentum, not engine torque
– Drive in 4H unless you know you will encounter soft sand, in which case, stop, switch to neutral and change gears to 4HLC
– Do not use 4LLC unless climbing very steep inclines or when stuck
– Engage the R/D lock as a last resort
– Pay attention to the dash, it shows you which wheel is slipping
– Using the air conditioner will not cause overheating, but it will cause minor torque loss
– Get a luggage net and tie everything down (even your last row seat if LWB)The INVECS II system constantly calculates engine load and will upshift, even in tiptronic mode, if it determines that engine damage is imminent. Unlike on the road, where upshift happens at redline, offroad it may happen even as low as 4750rpm.
I discussed this with the Chief Engineer at the Agent’s workshop & garage. His advice was to approach dunes in 2nd gear (tiptronic mode) and use momentum to cross dunes. Engine torque should only be used on steep inclines in 4LLC. If the system determines engine damage is likely, do not counter it, instead work around it.To address the great ‘ABS/TC or no ABS/TC’ debate, here are a few insights for Pajero owners:
Active Stability Control (ASC) & Active Traction Control (ATC) are complementary safety systems that use Anti Lock Braking System (ABS), Engine Braking Assist Control (EBAC) and Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD) to detect skid and loss of traction.
ASC works by sensing yaw, calculating EBD and limiting torque via EBAC to diagonal wheels so that the driver cannot further contribute to stability loss.
ATC senses loss of traction via speed sensors and applies ABS braking to maintain traction at the skid threshold.
In the 2008 model, ASC can be turned off via a button in the lower right panel under the steering wheel (right hand drive), next to the petrol lid lever. Above 60km/hr or when the engine is re-started, ASC will re-engage automatically.
ATC cannot be turned off; not even if the ABS fuse is removed.
It is a misconception that ATC works against the driver when driving in sand. In fact, it is actually ASC that cuts throttle input. This is what you feel when you see the flashing ‘car in skid’ light on the dashboard and sense power loss at the wheels.
ATC only activates when it senses slippage. For example, you lose momentum side sloping and get bogged down. Now, ordinarily, you would turn the steering earthwards and feather the throttle to edge the car down the slope. Considering that over-revving at this point will contribute to traction loss, ATC counters by using ABS whenever traction loss is sensed. Therefore, ATC is actually countering the driver’s contribution to traction loss, not causing it.
The only situation where ATC will work against the driver is when climbing a steep incline where sudden braking will be misinterpreted as emergency braking. This will only happen if braking when the wheels are spinning above a certain speed (I have not yet discovered this limit). ATC will then engage ABS, working against the driver’s intention to stop the vehicle on the incline and modulate the brakes causing the car to slip down backwards. This is extremely dangerous, especially on a hillside, as sliding backwards combined with your wheels getting angled into a rut can cause the vehicle to rollover.
To ensure the above does not happen, use 4LLC (4 Low Locked Center Differential) where ASC is deactivated, if tires spin, leave the accelerator and stop the vehicle using the handbrake. Alternatively, if equipped with a Rear Differential Lock (R/D), engaging it will deactivate ASC, ATC, ABS & EBD. This can only be done in neutral, so make this decision before you attempt the incline.
Also, when descending a steep hill, if low range is selected, first gear is engaged and driver’s foot is not on the brake, EBAC will manage the braking if traction loss is detected. This is Mitsubishi’s equivalent of ‘Hill Descent Control’.I hope to keep adding to this section as I learn more.
And for all current and potential Pajero owners… take pride in knowing that not only does the Pajero have a formidable pedigree among the offroad elite, few know that it was Mitsubishi that actually built the legendary Jeep CJ3 under contract from Willys Overland Corporation in 1953, now a subsidiary of DaimlerChrysler.
😀
Acknowledgements & Credits:
Many thanks to Mr. Mirza, Chief Engineer at Al Habtoor Motors, Garhoud Branch for taking the time to help me better understand my Pajero.
http://icebone.dyndns.org/Mitsubishi/New_2007_Pajero_PressKit/pajero.doc
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Willys
Wow… that looks very long.
If I had a Pajero, I’d read it. 😀Good Pointers Shan… in short, know your car before you take it out. Read your manual as it can be very helpfull 🙂
‘Know you car’ – easier said than done.
The local agent does a very poor job in promoting their vehicles. If you buy a Toyota, you’ll find a review in every car mag & website. But it’s very very difficult to get anything meaningful for the Pajero/Montero/Shogun.
The sales guys can’t even explain what a diff lock is, much less when it should be used.
I got most of my info from Aussie sites, ‘cos they really believe in the Pajero and use it to it’s limits.
these dont just apply on the pajero u know… u know right?
🙂 If you mean the info applies to other cars as well, yes, absolutely it does. In fact, I think everyone could learn a little more about these safety systems by going through the write-up above.
If you mean the crap quality of the sales force… I think we all have had that problem…
I was actually looking for more insight from the senior members, who could critique my post.
Excellent Info mate. This has just bumped up the Pajero on my wishlist ! ! !
Not a pajero fan !! I love the rally versions. Mivec twim cam engines.!! WOW
The commercial ones are underpowerd …and one of the worst salesmen for UAE !! They’re so dumb.
If it’s value for money you’re looking for… and you’re not into the South Koreans – then Mitsu is the only one for you.
Toyota is asking for waaaaay toooo much money for what they offer. Unfortunately, consumers think with their heart, not their head – that’s what branding is all about.
One thing I’d like to point out – on the dunes, driving a Pajero is nothing like driving an FJ or Wrangler – for this one, you actually need to develop some skill, as opposed to the ‘point & shoot’ for the others.
The only downside on the Pajero 3.8L are the R18 rims – not enough sidewall. This isn’t a problem for traction – its a 265 wide tyre – but if you dig in, you won’t have the sidewall to help you climb out. Plus there’s that ‘ice cream scoop’ rear bumper. I suggest you cable tie that to the bumper itself from the inside.
quote Roshan:The commercial ones are underpowerd …and one of the worst salesmen for UAE !! They’re so dumb.If you’re dune bashing – get the 3.8L – it has more power and torque than the FJ :p
The salesmen are idiots… the product sells itself… they know little or nothing about anything…
The Xterra is definitely a more capable beast, compared to the Pajero. Although I’d be surprised if it’s priced lower. The 2009 3.8L Pajero starts at 119k (ML) for fabric, 125 (HL) +sunroof+leather, 128 +RAD sound system, 131 +DVD – all with 1st year insurance included and 20k free service.
Specs on the link below:
http://www.alhabtoor-motors.com/mitsubishi/suv/pajero.htmI personally went for the Pajero it doesn’t look like a pickup truck – unlike all the other comparable SUVs. It seats 5 adults plus 2 children comfortable, and the interior is so much more upclass.
Besides, the front bumper isn’t so much of a problem – mild bumps you can fix by just pulling it out, but the rear is such a piece of crap… I took off the rear bumper to fix it and was surprised at the quality of material used for the silver insert – and not surprised in a good way!
R16s will definitely be better, but since experimenting with lower pressures, I’ve become comfortable with the R18s – unless you’re in Liwa, lower pressure, careful driving, good approach angles and a little good sense will get you over and across most dunes.
quote Sahmed:quote Roshan:The commercial ones are underpowerd …and one of the worst salesmen for UAE !! They’re so dumb.If you’re dune bashing – get the 3.8L – it has more power and torque than the FJ :p
The salesmen are idiots… the product sells itself… they know little or nothing about anything…yeh more powerful than fj on the books wht happens to it when it has to perform ????? same thing with xterra on the books 290 hp ??
(Note: apologies for bumping up an old thread.)
Finally some notes about the off-roading capability of the Pajero. Thanks, Sahmed.
Definitely gives a good insight on what to do and what not.
Shopping for a family vehicle + off roader and zeroed in on the 3.8 Pajero. The other candidate was the XTerra.
Hope to join you guys on a trip shortly.
Hi Sahmed,
Thanks for your wonderful review of the pajero. I have recently bought a 2005 Pajero 3L engine and the conditions are good except for bumpers.
I have few clarifications with you hoping that you will help me out.
1. Is it possible to do dune bashing and desert driving with Pajero 3L Automatic Engine.
2. Do i need to change the bumpers or can be fixed. I understand in your review, you were stating about fixing the front and rear bumpers. what does it mean? is it something like doing shed lubrication..
These informtion has really helped me, as I do own a Pajero 2009 model….Thanks a ton for sharing the points :thanks:
quote khshareef:1. Is it possible to do dune bashing and desert driving with Pajero 3L Automatic Engine.Yes. Dune bashing has very little do with cars, more to do with drivers. The 3L 5door may feel underpowered if you are trying to go up a steep incline, but will do the job with enough momentum.
quote khshareef:2. Do i need to change the bumpers or can be fixed. I understand in your review, you were stating about fixing the front and rear bumpers. what does it mean? is it something like doing shed lubrication..Gen4 (current shape) has a plastic mud guards attached to the front bumper. They will bend and scrape the tires if you hit a steep dune. The rear bumper silver insert scoops sand and will break off after a couple of trips.
You can get the front mud guards cut off (increases wind noise at speeds above 120kph) and steel gaurds riveted on. This will be invisible.
For the rear, you need a metal bar/plate made and screwed on (can be removed anytime).Check with Tarfana garage 06 5436051 / 050 7694183. Approx cost 600aed.
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